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Ahh, the heel turn. That mysterious, sometimes maddening part of sock knitting where your lovely tube of stitches suddenly needs to curve… and fit a real human foot.
If your hands are already sweating just thinking about it—don’t worry. By the end of this post, you’re going to feel READY to tackle any sock heel like the knitting superstar you are.
Today we’re covering two approaches:
The classic heel flap & gusset
My personal fave: the German Short Row Heel
Let’s get started.
Here’s the deal: sock heels can feel like learning a whole new knitting language.
You’re cruising along, happily knitting in the round, and then suddenly your pattern says:
"Work back and forth across half the stitches…"
Wait… WHAT?! Suddenly you're slipping stitches, turning mid-row, and wondering if this even counts as knitting anymore. 😂
Trust me, I’ve been there. My first heel-turn story? I ripped back twice, binge-watched tutorials, and nearly frogged the whole sock. But when that little curved heel actually took shape? MAGIC. ✨
The truth? Heels aren’t hard, they’re just different. Once you “get it,” you unlock the secret sauce of sock knitting.
Let’s simplify: the heel turn is a clever way to add shape to your sock so it hugs your heel. You’re not knitting a tube anymore—you’re sculpting.
Okay, full disclosure? I’m on Team “No Gussets for Me.” 😆 I find gussets tedious (I’d rather have a root canal than knit a gusset—no joke). But hey, a lot of knitters love this method, so let’s break it down.
Why people love it:
✅ Super sturdy—especially if you do an “Eye of Partridge” heel flap
✅ Fits well, especially for high arches
The steps:
1️⃣ Knit the Heel Flap: Work back and forth on half your stitches, slipping the first stitch of each row for a tidy edge.
2️⃣ Turn the Heel: This is the magic moment—you’ll work short rows to create that little cup shape.
3️⃣ Pick Up Stitches: Along the heel flap edges (don’t worry if it feels tricky at first).
4️⃣ Gusset Decreases: You’ll decrease back down to your original stitch count to get back to round knitting.
Here’s my real knitting truth:
As much as I respect the heel flap & gusset, my heart belongs to the German Short Row Heel.
Why?
🚫 No gussets
🚫 No picking up stitches
✅ Works toe-up and cuff-down
How it works:
1️⃣ Work half the stitches as your heel section
2️⃣ Instead of wrap & turn, you use double stitches to keep things neat and prevent gaps
3️⃣ You knit short rows in and out until that magical heel cup appears
It’s brilliant, it’s fast, and once you get the rhythm, you’ll be hooked.
Keep double stitches tight—no floppy loops!
Use markers to track your heel section (I mark at the halfway point and use a progress keeper to track the back and front)
Practice on a mini swatch first to build confidence
And remember: blocking works wonders! After finishing, give your sock a soak in a gentle wool wash, pop it on a blocker, and let it dry overnight—it’s like a night cream for your knits. (No, don’t actually use night cream on your socks 😂.)
🧶 High twist wool-nylon blends like our Southern Sock and MCN Sock bases
🪡 9-inch circular needles (I love ChiaoGoo!)
📍 Stitch markers & progress keepers—essential for staying organized
🧵 A handy crochet hook for dropped stitches (we stock a keychain set that’s in every one of my knitting bags!)
👉 Gap at the corner? Add an extra stitch at the join when picking up.
👉 Ladders between needles? Snug up your tension at the joins.
👉 Lost your place? Pause, count stitches, and double-check your pattern.
If you’ve been putting off sock knitting because of the heel turn… THIS is your sign:
You can do it! 💪
Your first heel might feel wonky. Your second? Smoother. By the third? You’ll be turning heels in your sleep.
🎁 Download your Sock Heel Checklist (with step-by-step guidance!)
🧶 Check out our Sock Yarn Collection for soft, durable, heel-perfect yarns.
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You don't want to miss the blog all about "Mastering Tension"
Until next time… keep knitting, keep learning, and keep creating with joy. ✨
