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Switch It Up: How to Substitute Yarns Without Sacrificing Quality

April 1, 2025

We’ve all been there: you’ve found the perfect knitting pattern, but the recommended yarn is out of stock, way out of your budget, or simply unavailable in your area. What’s a knitter to do? Enter the art of yarn substitution!

 

Substituting yarn might seem intimidating, but with a little know-how, you can confidently swap fibers, weights, and brands without compromising the quality of your project. In this post, we’ll break down the steps to successful yarn substitution, so you can knit exactly what you want—on your terms.

 

Quick Note: In case you are brand new here, this blog post is part of our ''Choosing the Best Fiber Type for Your Project'' series! In this series, I am breaking down everything you need to know about yarn fibers and choosing the best yarn fibers for your projects. To see the previous post in this series, check out blog post 6 called ‘’Go Knit Green: Choosing Sustainable and Ethical Yarn Options’’!

Why Substitute Yarn?

There are many reasons you might want (or need) to substitute yarn:

Budget-Friendly Alternatives: The recommended yarn is gorgeous but a bit too pricey.

Local Availability: You can’t find the exact yarn in your area or prefer to shop local.

Fiber Preferences: You might want to avoid certain fibers (e.g., wool allergies) or try something more sustainable.

Creative Flexibility: Swapping yarn gives you the chance to personalize your project with different textures or colors.

Whatever your reason, yarn substitution is a valuable skill that every knitter should have in their toolkit.

How To Substitute Yarns

Below are some simple steps you can follow for substituting yarn. 

Step 1: Match the Yarn Weight

The first rule of yarn substitution? Always start by matching the yarn weight. Using the wrong weight can drastically alter your project’s size, drape, and overall appearance.

 

Here’s a quick refresher on common yarn weights:

Pro Tip: Always check the pattern’s gauge and compare it to your yarn’s label to ensure a proper match.

Step 2: Compare Fiber Content

Yarn fibers determine how your finished project will feel, behave, and wear over time. If you’re substituting, aim to match the original fiber as closely as possible—or understand how your chosen fiber will change the outcome.

Common Fiber Characteristics:

Wool: Warm, elastic, and holds shape well. Great for sweaters and accessories

Cotton: Lightweight and breathable, but lacks elasticity. Perfect for summer projects.

Alpaca: Soft and warm with a silky drape, but prone to stretching. Best for cozy wraps.

Silk: Luxurious, smooth, and drapey, ideal for shawls and dressy items.

Acrylic: Affordable, durable, and easy to care for, but less breathable. Good for kid-friendly projects.

Example: Swapping 100% wool for a cotton yarn? Be prepared for less elasticity and warmth but better breathability—perfect for lighter garments.

Step 3: Consider Yardage, Not Just Skein Count

Yarns come in all sorts of skein sizes, so when substituting, don’t just look at the number of skeins the pattern calls for—check the total yardage!

 

For example:

The pattern recommends 5 skeins of a yarn with 100 yards each (500 yards total).

Your substitute yarn has 200 yards per skein. You’ll only need 3 skeins of your yarn to cover the pattern (with 100 yards to spare!).

Pro Tip: Always buy a little extra—better to have leftovers than run out mid-project!

Step 4: Test for Gauge

Even if your yarn matches in weight and fiber, your tension may vary. That’s why knitting a gauge swatch is non-negotiable.

 

Here’s how:

1:

Cast on the recommended number of stitches for a 4-inch square.

2:

Knit in the stitch pattern specified in the gauge (stockinette, ribbing, etc.).

3:

Measure your stitches per inch after blocking.

If your swatch doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge:

Too few stitches per inch? Go down a needle size.

Too many stitches per inch? Go up a needle size.                                                            

Step 5: Drape and Texture Matter

Even if the gauge lines up, different fibers and constructions (like plies) can change the fabric’s drape and texture. Ask yourself:

Does the original yarn have a smooth or fuzzy texture?

Is the fabric stiff or flowy?

Does the pattern rely on stitch definition for cables or lace?                                         

Example: Replacing a crisp 4-ply cotton yarn with a soft single-ply alpaca will result in a much drapier, looser fabric—beautiful for shawls but not ideal for fitted garments.

Step 6: Color and Dye Lot Considerations

Color is another key factor when substituting yarns. If you’re mixing and matching brands or batches, be aware of potential differences in dye lots.

Hand-Dyed Yarns: These can vary widely even within the same colorway. Alternate skeins every few rows to blend colors seamlessly.

Commercial Yarns: Check that all skeins come from the same dye lot to ensure uniformity.

Pro Tip: If you’re substituting yarn, take the opportunity to play with color! Try tonal variations, self-striping yarns, or even speckled blends for a unique twist.

Step 7: Swatching Isn’t Just for Gauge

Your swatch does more than confirm your gauge—it’s also your chance to preview how the yarn will behave:

Wash and Block: See how the fabric changes with cleaning. Does it stretch out? Shrink?

Feel the Fabric: Does it drape the way you want? Is it too stiff or too loose?

Check Stitch Definition: Do the cables or lace stand out?

Pro Tip: Never skip this step! Swatching saves time, frustration, and ensures your project looks and feels exactly how you imagined.

Common Yarn Substitution Mistakes to Avoid

1:

Skipping the Gauge Swatch: It’s tempting, but skipping this step can lead to ill-fitting projects.

2:

Ignoring Fiber Properties: Swapping wool for cotton without understanding the differences can lead to surprises.

3:

Underestimating Yardage: Always double-check total yardage to avoid running out mid-project.

4:

Not Considering Drape: A yarn that’s too stiff or too drapey can change the entire look of your project.

Conclusion: Substituting Yarn Like a Pro

Yarn substitution is more than just a workaround—it’s an opportunity to personalize your knitting. By considering weight, fiber content, yardage, and texture, you can confidently swap yarns and create projects that look and feel amazing.

 

So go ahead, experiment with different yarns, and don’t be afraid to make your project uniquely yours. With a little practice, you’ll be a yarn substitution pro in no time!

 

You don't want to miss our next post in our ''Choosing the Best Fiber Type for Your Project'' series! To stay up to date on this series and all the fun things happening at Southern Skeins, make sure you follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube! 

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Hi, I'm Jenna!

I am owner and dyer behind Southern Skeins and a lifelong creative with a passion for helping others bring their visions to life. Through every endeavor, my goal is to make the creative process easier, more enjoyable, more productive, and more successful for everyone!
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